Paris Fall’23 Menswear Trend: The Coziest War
War continues to have a strong arm over every country. As we speak, Ukraine fights to keep its independence and the effects are felt everywhere. Refugees from Asian, African, Central American and Caribbean countries flow over every border possible. The war between the far right and left seems to permeate in every major world power. Displacement and Gentrification are an all too common yin-yang that rolls down the road right outside your home. Only this season the theme of war is more tangible out of the closet than the cold dystopia of HBO’s ‘ The Last of Us’.
It’s no surprise with all this movement Fall 2023 menswear shows are rife with militaria, layers and big bags. As if to say global warming will have you cold and on the street. No doubt street culture will keep sales and shopping baskets full. The movement between home and lack there of is seen in shows like Louie Vuitton who’s set was a youth living arrangement with everyone’s favorite colonizing queen Rosalia, who kept Spain’s presence lively and a tune to the future. As she so famously was quoted at her concert in Mexico last year “Me gusta mucho tu tierra!”.
Y la tierra, por supuesto, earth colors abound. Lemaire featured fatigue green, grey and cream in relaxed silhouettes that mimicked 80s drop shoulders along with knit hoods and layers. Red Dawn meets casual Duran Duran, like a vintage Byblos dream. Bianca Saunders echos this ease and comfort chic, minus the fatigue green and boldly interjected color and stripes. Minimalist, cozy chic; please start the bonfire on the Rue de Rivoli.
Young designers like Egonlab, Wooyoungmi and Hed Mayner received the memo; grab the blanket, layer on what you have quickly because there is no time. The world is ending and you’re gonna need these as you stomp through new terrains, but please have fun while doing so. In fact, introduce a party while doing so. Cut outs, pieced denim and suits still have a choke hold on fashion especially at Egonlab whose show featured the UK Drag Race star Tayce looking like a fashion survivalist of the highest fiercest order.
Amiri, Saint Laurent, Wales Bonner all featured a chilly layering that was bold, beautiful but emoted a sadness, a darkness that sees the future. I’m chic, leave me alone, I’m suffering in silence.
Walter Van Beirendonck, Feng Chen Wang and Givenchy also featured a survivalist chic cum street style. Walter expanding on the concept of “buffering” with blow up protection cushion (yes, you heard that right), while quilted blankets and military cuts in bright colors showed at Fong. And the faux Dickies workwear at Givenchy had me gasping to covet pink coveralls and black kilts. Was this a collaboration or just a tip of the hat to Americana workwear?
But it was Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Doublet that really brought the end of times, mixed with non-gendered looks, that this future seems to focus on. The former being high on sex and skin and the latter focused on youth absurdity.
Finally, no one does the romance of dystopia better than John Galliano for Maison Margiela. The oversized Pendleton jackets and inside out trenches confirmed the end of times layering is at its height. Military strength meets rule breaking second hand clothing. Vintage sultry shapes comes face to face with nuclear winter. I’m here for all of it, at least until the end.